Marchesa Spring 2010.

There must be something fantastic going on over at Marchesa's house because when I saw their Spring collection for 2010 it was like getting a splash of water in the face. Refreshing and awakening. I'll tell you right now Marchesa will be getting an Academy Award this year, if it hasn't already got an Emmy. Marchesa's collection of evening wear inspired by Japanese Origami, Kimono and the texture of paper, may be conventional, but it's anything but ordinary.

Many were afraid this season that the state of the economy would be reflected in the designer's collections, many down played the decadence, others disregarded it entirely, but Marchesa did something wonderful. They embraced it. Each gown is a simple architecturally structured creation, each embellishment a reflection of restraint. Personally I was in awe of the way Marchesa integrated paper origami into their gown work and their use of contrast and tailoring that brings each piece to a climax, a crossroads where fashion meets art.


The influence of Japanese culture is blatant, but it is also pronounced and regal. As is the subtle and subdued violets and ceylons in their lace gowns. The lace work and bared skin seems ever so decadent, and just as beautiful from afar as it is up close, yet Marchesa curtails the overabundance common in runway collections and plays up the sophistication of each piece.



Even the violet and white gown of what appears like rolled up paper, feels like it is only there to make an impression on the collection, not to overpower it. The power lies in the high contrasting black and white satins and silks of the gown-work. In the embroidery, appliques, cut outs and prints. My favorite aspect of this collection, which i think we can all appreciate in our own wardrobes is the printed tights. By investing detail in a place where none would go looking for a print of that kind, there is a heightened sense of the richness of quality.




Every detail is brought together, nothing is left undone. There isn't a singles string to pull on. Even the shoes are beautifully constructed. Marchesa adds a pop of color to keep us awake in a pair of violently hot pink gowns. But there are no further embellishments. Just color and fabric. Swathes of fabric.


A emphasis on a set of gowns in primarily white brings to our attention that these are works of art intended for Black and White balls, the Oscars (the white off the shoulder gown below is slightly reminiscent and what seems to be an improvement of Katherine Heigl's Escada dress for Oscars 2009) and charity balls. If Cinderella were true today, she would ask for Marchesa to be her fairy godmother.



The last set of gowns, made up of mostly silver seem fitting for a runway or the likes of a fairytale ending. Queen Frostine of Candyland and Galadriel of Lord Of The Rings both come to mind. Icey silver perfection in chiffon and sequins.


<3 stay classy

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